Когда женщины правили Пятой авеню. Гламур и власть на заре американской моды - Джули Сэтоу

465

Rosemary Feitelberg, “Jean Rosenberg, Retail Pioneer and Ideal American Size 6, Dies at 97,” Women’s Wear Daily, June 19, 2022.

466

Интервью автора с Пат Теннант, Катчог, штат Нью-Йорк, 12.06.2021.

467

Jill Gerston, “Style Says: ‘Here I am,’” Knight-Ridder Newspapers, 3.

468

Интервью автора с Пат Теннант, Катчог, штат Нью-Йорк, 12.06.2021.

469

Интервью Хейзел Кларк.

470

Интервью автора с Пат Теннант, Катчог, штат Нью-Йорк, 12.06.2021.

471

Там же.

472

Marylin Bender, “Shops look to 7th Ave., not Europe,” New York Times, June 19, 1963, 63.

473

“Biography of Geraldine Stutz,” Bendel press release, 1958, Geraldine Stutz Henri Bendel collection, the New York Public Library.

474

“French Imports, Adapted Designs and Boutique Fashions are Shown,” New York Times, March 11, 1957.

475

Интервью автора с Пат Теннант, Катчог, штат Нью-Йорк, 12.06.2021.

476

Marylin Bender, “European Ready-to-Wear Attracts New York Stores’ Buyers Abroad,” New York Times, December 31, 1959, 14.

477

“Management Looks at Dresses,” Dress and Costume Merchandiser, February-March 1964.

478

“Henri Bendel Sets Goal of 15 Crimpers Units,” Women’s Wear Daily, July 10, 1969.

479

“Management Looks at Dresses,” Dress and Costume Merchandiser, February-March 1964.

480

The Henri Bendel of Geraldine Stutz,” Clothes, March 1, 1967.

481

“Young Fashion Areas Enjoy Growing Pains,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 21, 1963, 1.

482

На английском – youthquake, понятие, построенное на созвучии с earthquake, «землетрясение»; молодежные протестные движения 1960-х годов.

483

“Beauty Is What’s Happening in Fashion,” интервью с Джеральдиной Штутц на собрании по косметике «Фэшн Груп», February 10, 1966.

484

Betsy Holland Gehman, “Geraldine Stutz: Bendel’s Bearcat,” Promenade, June 1965, 32.

485

John Weitz, “The Young Goddesses,” Cosmopolitan, March, 1967, 66.

486

Бесподобная, несравненная (фр.).

487

Sinty Stemp, Jean Muir: Beyond Fashion, (Suffolk, U.K.: Antique Collectors’ Club, 2007), 157, 115.

488

“Bendel Revives Made to Order,” New York Herald Tribune, October 4, 1961, 18.

489

“Custom Orders Gain Popularity,” New York Times, November 28, 1961, 43.

490

“Henri Bendel to Dress in Own Fashions,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 7, 1967, 1.

491

Shirley Clurman, “Geraldine Stutz,” People, 120.

492

Телефонное интервью автора с Джимом Хопкинсом, 07.04.2022.

493

Kathy Larkin, “Gerry Stutz – Innovative Fashion Retailer,” Gazette Telegraph, May 14, 1984.

494

Geraldine Stutz, “Beauty Is What’s Happening in Fashion,” речь на собрании «Фэшн Груп», Feb 10, 1966.

495

Marylin Bender, “Bendel’s President Sees Herself as Customer” New York Times, May 10, 1965, 37.

496

H. McKim Glazebrook, “Bendel’s Great Big Garden Gazebo,” Interiors, July 1965, 69.

497

Priscilla Tucker, “Universal Reformer comes to Bendel’s,” New York Herald Tribune, October 10, 1965.

498

“The Henri Bendel of Geraldine Stutz,” Clothes, March 1, 1967.

499

Телефонное интервью автора с Кэрол Браун, 20.05.2021.

500

Mariyn Bender, “When the Boss is a Woman,” Esquire, March 28, 1978, 37.

501

Интервью автора с Пат Петерсон.

502

Bender, “When the Boss is a Woman,” 35–38.

503

“The Henri Bendel of Geraldine Stutz,” Clothes, March 1, 1967.

504

Catherine Houck, “The Artful Business of Making Mannequins,” Cosmopolitan, January 1976, 149.

505

Schneider, Vital Mummies, 70.

506

Пер. Р. Облонской.

507

Odlum, A Woman’s Place, 162–163.

508

Lester Gaba, The Art of Window Display (New York: the Studio Publications, 1952), 11.

509

“A Girl Needs a Background,” House and Garden, December 1941, 75.

510

Catherine Houck, “The artful business of making mannequins,” Cosmopolitan, January 1976, 149.

511

Lester Gaba, New York Times, letter to the editor, December 17, 1980, c8.

512

Michele Ingrassia, “A model for her industry,” Newsday, June 30, 1983, D2.

513

Там же.

514

Angela Taylor, “They Find Right Face – Then Create a Mannequin to Resemble It,” New York Times, November 28, 1977, 51.

515

Joshua David Stein, “Kevin Arpino Plays to a Silent Audience,” New York Times, December 12, 2012, E7.

516

“Around Town, Mrs. Odlum Says A Woman’s Place,” PM, November 2, 1944, 12.

517

“Mrs. Odlum finishes year as store head,” New York Times, October 4, 1935, 32.

518

“New York Department Store, Run by Woman, is Success,” The Daily Home News, 13 October 1935, 5.